Installation Instructions
Rear Axle Bushings FWD Mopar 1984 to 1994!
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Rear Axle To Frame Bushings
Step One, is to support your car "safely" on
jack stands. Block front tires so car will not roll.
Step Two, remove axle bracket by taking the three
bolts out as shown by the blue arrows (15mm socket).

The goal is to remove the bolt shown by the red
arrow, but to remove this bolt, you need to remove the
other three first. Remove bolts on both sides of the car.
Step three, remove the three bolts (10mm socket)
that are on the axle arm. this releases the brake
line so it will be free from hanging up when the axle
arm gets lowered.
Step Four, remove the bolt that attaches
axle arm to bracket, as shown in photo on left.
Step Five, repeat on the other side. Now lower
axle arms away from the car, toward the ground.
Step Six, is taking the rubber bushing out of the
shell. The shell stays in the axle arm. Do not remove it.
Some use a drill to remove the bushing, You can use
a torch to heat the outside of the shell all the way
around. No need to burn the bushing, a little heat only.
Tapping on the bushing a little after the shell is hot will
help remove the old rubber bushing and sleeve.
This photo shows what the rubber does when it gets hot.

This can really make a mess under where you are
working, so it might be good to put something
protective down.
Step Seven, clean-up inside the shell, preparing it
for the new polyurethane bushings.


Step Eight
, slide in both bushing halves.
No need to lube these, but a very thin film of lube
will help insert them if needed.

Using a screw vise or large pliers will help squeeze
in the polyurethane bushings.
This is how it looks with the bushings installed.
Step Nine, lube the sleeve with the special "Poly"
green lube that came in the kit, then press it into the
poly bushings.
Using large pliers or a screw vise will help with this.
The sleeve is a little tight to get started.

Step Ten, lube the outside of the bushings,
as they will rub on the steel bracket. The lube will
help stop any bushing noise.
Step Eleven, install and tighten NEW grade 8 bolts,
washers, and lockingcrimp nuts supplied with kit.
(new bolt not shown here)
Look at photo in step 4.
You need to install this bolt correctly.
It is installed with the threads going toward
the inside of the car!

This photo shows a smaller bolt that came out of
the project car, and the larger bolt that came out of
a doner car axle. (I converted drum brake axle to disc
brake axle while I was doing this project) And of course,
I used the larger bolt on the project.
Your kit includes the new, larger bolts!
Step Twelve, swing the axle back up into place
and install all the bolts you took out.


Watch your brake lines.
Tighten all hardware.

Contact Johnny at (541) 266-0890 or e-mail at glhs289@hotmail.com
.